Following our massive effort at Maido, and knowing that we were going to be entering the nonstop environment of the tour, we thought we would take it easy. Turns out we still managed to do quite a bit.
Walk along the coast and to the museum of contemporary art, quite small , but interesting enough and then carried on along to Barranco. Lots of Sunday markets underway , families doing family things. I checked out a supermarket and can confirm that pretty much everything is cheaper than home. Blueberries sold by the half kilo for $7. Meat and dairy much cheaper than home.
On the way to BarrancoDon’t get these in New World Local markets. Incredible street art everywhere!
We stopped and had a beer and cerviche , which was amazing. They love their cerviche here and we love eating it!
Cerviche for the day.
Back to the hotel for a bit of a nap and then we dragged ourselves out to the “fountain park”. Turns out it was open as a special event for Christmas and was packed with Peruvian families having a good time. People watching at its best ! Fountains be damned. So much fun. We then went back into the city for an unremarkable meal. Noticeable that our search for vegetables failed dismally. A pisco sour later and it was off back to the hotel
Monday was check out time and time to meet the tour group.
What would they be like? Would we get on ? How many in the tour etc etc. Well here they all ate after we did the initial check in .
Our Intrepid Peru tour group
A fairly diverse group . 7 women 9 men , Age ranges of 16 to 61. Single people, a couple and a family. We come from the UK, Serbia, Canada, USA, Czech Republic and a couple of Australian boys too. So far, so good. Tomorrow we head deep into the Amazon.
When we were first thinking of heading to Lima we had heard it was a place of Gastronomic treats. The melding of influences that have been here with access to an incredibly diverse range of fresh produce from incredible seafood, to Amazonian forest wonders. Maido , a Japanese/peruvian restaurant was definitely on the cards. And then it won a rather significant award and was named the best restaurant in the world. Don’t ask me who gets to make this pronouncement. But they’ve named others like Nomu, El Bulli, French Laundry and frankly if they’re adding Maido to the list – then they’ve got my attention.
Bookings are extremely hard to come by, so when bookings opened many months ago I proceeded to bombard their website over and over again like a 15 year old Swifty determined to get concert tickets – and what do you know, I succeeded in getting a table. David’s 60th birthday dinner was booked.
So , settle in, there’s 12 courses and I’m going to try and recall each one. you can leave now! I get it. Truth is this is more for my own memory than anyone else’s entertainment!
So we arrived. looks pretty good from the outside doesn’t it?
And up we go! to the whole crew yelling “maido” izakaya style.
Definitely not a stuffy formal vibe , and not sure what all the ropes are about. But they kinda looked cool.
As a lot of you will know,
MADRÉ De Dios Bahuaja nuts, regional chorizo, yacón.BUTIFARRA Smoked paiche ham, ají dulce emulsion, melipona honey, karashi.
So it’s about now, you’ll be asking questions about what the fuck are Bahuaja nuts. And if I had the time I’d google it and give you all the details. But would you remember tomorrow? Probably not, and nor will I. But this was the start of a bit of a thing. The presentation at times seemed more than the actual food. And while delicious, let’s be honest that second pic was basically a mini ham sandwich!
Now this was delicious, the pistachio hit was unexpected and really made it. You may also notice by now I have discovered the portrait mode on my phone. And as I’ve already gone on about the presentation I better show you this too.
Impressive presentation right?CEBICHE Catch of the day, squid, snails, pistachio cream, leche de tigre.
I did enjoy this too, and no, I can’t remember all the full descriptions here. The “theme” of the menu was Tradition Location. Fairly broad if you ask me.
SARZA AREQUIPEÑA River prawns from Moisés (Ocoña), limpets, coral, huacatay, chicha.
I was big fan of this one, reminiscent of a tartar ( one of my favs) – but wait there’s more I did a video.
Damn it. Needed to go portrait! SUSHI Toro, uni, cured egg yolks, shari.
This comes with a vid too, the Toro or Spanish Tuna was something spectacular, it literally melted in your mouth. it was on a base of Kina too a perfect pairing. And fun discovering the different kupu( words) for sea urchin.
may be slightly out of sequence here, but by now I’m getting full and a bit tipsy on an Uruguayan red wine. You can see the salsa on the left. Heat but not too hot. Delicious again. As you can tell they are what a friend called “ pop in your gob” style.
COSTA SUR Chilean seabass, nitsuke, sekihan, fukujinzuke, cocona chalaca.
Definitely for me the underwhelming dish of the night. A piece of fish in broth with some sprinkled bits. Lovely but you know …
CHAZUTA Veal cheeks, macambo, tucupí.
By now I am getting So Full… argh.. can I even remember? but here’s another video
So, before we move onto desert, I was fairly proud of the fact that the main outfit I will wear on planes, that will take me into the Amazon and march me up Machu Picchu also took me to the worlds best restaurant. In my 12 kg bag I managed to get some styling in. Behold !
Thanks colleagues who bought me this piece! Himself looking swanky too!MANGOS Edward – ciruelo, wasabi, basil, oxalis.
Not sure what Edward had to do with this one , a palette cleanser but I didn’t really get the Wasabi !
MADURO A LA BRASA Plantain ice cream with shoyu, seeds, coconut, tobiko, camu camu,crackers
This was extraordinary, probably for me a highlight. Caviar ice cream , sweet, salty textures. But I was getting so FULL!
Me being arty and a bit tipsy at the same time on the way to the loo
I’m rather pleased that in the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cultures the heated Toto toilet seats made into the mix.
AND FINALLY
OKASHI *Empanada chiclayana *70% cacao
AN EMPANADA and some chocolate
Followed by ..
macambo miso *tubers* * lúcuma mochi.
Served in a Japanese style Okashi or Benti style box.
Enough said.
As a final treat and David’s final 4th birthday cake in a week!
Really nice touch. thank you Maido.
The restaurant had the following on the inside of the menu and maybe I should have led with this. Not sure I get it, and definitely don’t see the connection to Time and Location. But some people smarter than me sure did.
Life is movement.
Nothing is static or absolute.
No one is.
We are in a state of constant flux, just like the Earth, the tides, bacteria, light, the blood-in our bodies, colors, seeds.
Like family trees, cuisines are constantly being redefined, their identities enriched by an intense intercultural exchange which has formed the basis of all civilization ever since humans shared their first sounds, products, ideas, and customs.
So that’s most of the Maido experience. 3.5 hours and a small mortgage later we wondered out. Got stuck at the door. Could not find a handle , a button , did it slide , waving drunken hands in the air did nothing. So back upstairs to get help. Turned out we forgot to push. 🙄.
There is something special about waking up in a new country or city, somewhere you’ve never been before..
I will never tire of that anticipation of of what you’re going to discover. Today was no exception!
New birdsong, a new flower or tree, the colours and sights and sounds. Nothing can ever replace that first impression, so you just soak it all in. truely one of life’s joys.
We explored the area where the hotel is for some breakfast, came across a Christmas market went to the Coast , a Panetonne market and a playground full of cats. Yup, closed to the public for I guess maintenance, so the local feline population had moved in. It’s apparently a thing here with a park dedicated to cats somewhere too…
Is it actually made for the cats?Bit of street artNot sure what these are about.
Back to the hotel for a bit of a swim , I suspect this maybe the only rooftop pool we encounter on this trip so better get in.
We had booked a bit of a private tour that took us to the coast to check out a Gaudi reminiscent park for lovers. Then a very old “adobe” pyramids going back to pre Inca times and then into the central city. Catholicism and Spanish influence is strong, they really did a number on this place. But I suppose they did leave some fairly remarkable architecture…
There’s a slight undercurrent of “something “ going on here too…the riot Police were obvious in the square, our guide was surprised it was open. But was staying away from ant political talk. Into a cathedral which was remarkably like being back in Alhambra , and down into their catacombs, ( which for me required a few cleansing/protecting karakia). I’m not a fan of looking at human remains!
Adobe structures, mud brick structures that have lasted centuries..Central square in Lima. Fascinating architecture Our early morning walk to the coast..
So it’s off to dinner tonight to Maido, recently named the world’s best restaurant, the “official “ birthday dinner for you know who! Definitely be subject to its own post. But in the meantime the hotel just sent this up. How sweet! ( and bloody delicious)
We are about to land Lima and it’s been a long trip. Leaving Wellington on Friday afternoon we are scheduled to land at midnight Friday night. But that doesn’t tell the whole story. 14 hours from Auckland to Houston. A race through the airport to just make the connecting flight to Lima and all up it will be about 30 hours of travel. Leaving at 2:00pm and still being a Friday truely makes this the longest day ever !!!
Our Airnz flight was great, we went bougie and booked Business Premier , so much space it was almost palatial. couldn’t even reach the footstool on the other side. Unfortunately though the electronics on my seat failed. The crew just about had hernias manually manipulating it into a sort of lie flat configuration, and when it was time to set it back up best I could get was a half slouch position! Not ideal but in the moment what can you do?
Then David’s did the same!
We will write to Airnz and see what they come back with, will keep you posted.
Immigration in the US was almost a disappointment, no one even looked at our visas and I’m not even sure we did customs…uneventful except for the long queues for security!
United airlines have treated us very well. Well. Seatbelt sign is on. Time to put the shoes on and get this adventure on the way now that we are about to land.
Ten years ago, when we were moving to Hong Kong and I had packed up the house, I decided to meet David in Bali on the way to our new home. I had 5 checked bags, weighing well in excess of 120kg. That’s right, 120kg The equivalent weight of a burgeoning sumo wrestler!
Manageable, except that in the midst of all this we decided to go the Gilli’s, a no car island, arriving by ferry where you had to basically jump from the boat onto the beach and your bags were unceremoniously tossed into the sand. Heavy bags and sandy beaches do not mix. This was a mistake.
But not this time, this time we are well prepared, and the aim is to only bring carry on, yes, you heard that right, carry on luggage for two months and having completed our practice pack I think we can do it.
Of course this will come with compromises, you can expect to see the same outfits on regular rotation. One pair of shoes, one pair or trousers, a few (merino) shirts, undies and socks, toiletries and that’s it.
My bag has come in at 11.2 kg that includes a rather heavy first aid kit, and 700g of chocolates that will be distributed on Christmas day. I also have a backpack that is coming in ar around 6kg.I could not be more proud of myself.
The question will be, how long will it last?
Our luggage allowance allows for 2 carry on bags, given we only have 2 hours to get the flight to Lima I think this will be useful!
I’m feeling confident that for the first month where we will be constantly moving this will be fine, the idea is to be able to pick up and go quickly. After all, what we are wearing is not important, we are there to see, not be seen!
After that, I think the rules may relax a little, and by the time we hit the states in late January we will be ready to hit the malls and do a bit of retail therapy.
Nebraska, the final leg will be very cold, so we will need to pick up some winter clothing, we are thinking at this stage it will be an opportunity to go “thrifting” pick up a few warm outfits and then donate most of it back when we leave.
I’m a huge fan of packing cubes, and I have managed to get some compression packing cubes which make a huge difference in saving space.
It’s been fun thinking of all the other discretionary items that I am bringing, some laundry sheets and a portable washing line, a couple of light accessories, a small scarf, a pin, to dress up the day outfits, discovering the travel section at Chemist Warehouse where I can indulge my love of miniature bottles that can travel well. Skincare is important folks!
So we are packed, ready to go, stand by for the next update from Lima…
Welcome to our trip page, the place where we will post our pictures, experiences and observations on our trip to South America.
I am resurrecting the page I used for the Camino, not sure if it will work, if you are reading this I suppose it has?
This trip has been a long time in the planning and comes at the end of what has been a pretty horrid year! This is all part of the celebration for someone’s birthday that may or may not end with zero! So all the more reason to let loose a bit!
The countdown is on and at the end of this week we will be heading our way to Lima onto the first leg of the trip.
So what are some of the highlights that we are looking forward to?
We are taking two intrepid tours, both 15 days long, one through Peru and ending in La Paz Bolivia, and then a second a few days later from La Paz through Bolivia, that will eventually end in Buenos Aires.
It’s our first time doing small group tours and that in and of itself will be an experience, will we get on with the rest of the group? What will the pace be like? Are we group tour people? All this and more to find out.
Some of the highlights we are looking forward to include:
A couple of nights deep in the Amazon
Climbing Machu Pichu
The salt flats of Bolivia
A homestay on Lake Titicaca
Death road ride in La Paz
Tango in Buenos Aires
Igacuzu falls
And so, so much more…..
Another highlight will be going to Maido, recently named the World’s best restaurant in Lima, Peru, this will be the location for the official birthday dinner, so prepare yourself for some Peruvian/Japanese food shots.
Once we have finished the tours we will have a week in Buenos Aires before heading up to Iguacu falls, a few days in Rio, Houston and then a sidebar trip to Nebraska. Yes, Nebraska, but more on that leg later.
We will be away almost 2 months, by far the longest trip of this nature that we have ever taken, so sit back, press subscribe and get ready for your updates!